After meeting Judi at the airport, we left Sarajevo and headed for the town of Mostar. Mostar is famous for its bridge which was built during the Ottoman occupation. On one side of the bridge, the population is predominantly Muslim; on the other side it is predominantly Catholic Croat.

Perhaps because it is a smaller town than Sarajevo, the war damage seems more evident. Across the street from our hotel were the remains of a bakery – across the river the remains of the Hotel Neretva – which looks like a former Ottoman palace. The city is incredibly tired; there is very little verve – save for the laughter of a random handful of Italian pensioners.

Some Western business is evident.  Benetton – apparently always the first to break into new markets- has a shop in downtown Mostar. Mcdonald’s is auspiciously absent.  But outside of the few shops and the international petrol stations along the road from Sarajevo, it is clear that Western companies are still only cautiously optimistic about Bosnia’s future.

After climbing a hill at an 88 degree angle, we reached the Center for an Authentic Bosnia,  where we were to meet Amir Pasic, the man responsible for the rebuilding of the famous bridge in Mostar. Mr. Pasic was not there, but we met a high school reunion of five friends who all had left Bosnia during the war.  Dino Kerebeg discussed the difficulties of promoting tourism to Mostar. The bridge was the international symbol – once it was repaired, that was the end of international attention. He believes in the potential of the city – but is frustrated by the lack of financial support.

Mr. Pasic on his way to Sarajevo for a conference came bustling into the garden and he graciously gave us some of his time. One of his main concerns was the issue of priority in financial aid. There is a very short window to secure funding for major restoration/urban development. Bosnia, because of the nature of the conflict and the failure of the West to respond appropriately, had a slightly longer window. However, the funds eventually were rerouted to Kosovo, Afghanistan, and now Iraq is on the agenda.

The destruction of Mostar was almost exclusively on the Bosnian side. Aerial images of Mostar after the conflict show the incredible swath of destruction. People are starting to return – but he also added that many who are returning are those who were either unsuccessful or dissatisfied in the West.  He talked a bit about his feelings about  life in the USA – but he prefers the Balkan  life style – which he feels has a lot less stress.

We visited the new cemetery, snugly fitted between the street and a car park in front of one of the local mosques, which is pock-marked by shelling. We also visited two of the local mosques - both having been restored since the war. The Karadozbeg Mosque has actually been restored to its original design, instead of the restoration that had taken place at the end of the eighteenth century.

Later in the trip, we heard that there was some ethnic tension in Mostar only a few weeks prior to our arrival. During the World Cup matches, the Muslims were supportive of the team that played against Croatia.  When Croatia was defeated, there was celebration in the Muslim half of the city.  As a result, Croat fans crossed the river and began attacking the Muslim inhabitants.